Sundays in Paris

I'm sure that many newcomers to Paris are shocked to see such a lively city become a silent ghost-town on Sundays.


A general calm blankets the city as Parisians opt out of public life for their quiet homes. There is a welcome pause from all of the typical weekday city noise- a temporary end to the superfluous police sirens, the constant tunnels of air from passing cars, and the shouts and conversations from pedestrians. Shops display iron grates and "closed" signs instead of new wares, and the only life on the street seems to be the street cleaners sweeping away the excesses of the Saturday night prior.

I look at Sundays as an opportunity to read the books that I neglected on Friday and Saturday night, to go on long, meandering walks, full of both empty and full thoughts, and to cook some more labor-intensive dishes. Sundays are great for leisurely picnics with friends as well.

Yet, for those craving a bit of action on Sundays, the city doesn't have to be so depressing. In fact, there's a whole quartier that's full of life. Here's a small guide for people who want some nice walking, good food, and an otherwise lively Sunday afternoon.

1) Market Action at Bastille Market


One of the most largest, most action-packed and affordable markets happens to take place on Sundays- The Bastille Market. Walk along the Seine towards Place de la Bastille or hop on the Metro (lines 1, 5, and 8) and get off on the Bastille stop (conveniently named). This market has everything- from beautiful produce to never-ending fish stands and Italian butchers. The prices are right and the crowd is a pleasant mixture of Parisians and tourists. Plus, the boulangeries in the surrounding area are open for quick, on-the-go breakfasts. This is the perfect place to start a Sunday morning.

Marché Bastille
Thursdays and Sundays, 7:30 am- 2 pm
Boulevard Richard Lenoir
75011 Paris
Métro: Bastille

2) Picnics and Sunbathing at Place de Vosges

Located just a walking distance away from the market, Place de Vosges is the oldest planned square in Paris (built during the era of Henry IV). It's hard to miss, as it's constructed from beautiful red bricks. Apparently Victor Hugo lived in a house along one of its edges. While the restaurants inside the square tend to be over-priced and touristy, the lawn is a wonderful place to sit and relax during the late Sunday morning, perhaps also to enjoy whatever market items you might have picked up earlier at Bastille. I'm sorry that I don't have a picture, but I'm happy to provide directions from Bastille Market...

Place de Vosges
From the Bastille Metro stop, take Rue Saint-Antoine away from Bastille, in the direction of the Louvre, or Notre Dame. You'll pass Rue de Tournelles, an impassé (or dead-end street), and finally your third right will take you right to the heart of Place de Vosges. Again, look for the red brick!

3) Shopping and Dining in the Marais


The Marais, or the hip Gay and Jewish neighborhood of the city is the place to be on a Sunday. Located in the 4th arrondissement and encompassing Place de Vosges, it's packed with small clothing, tea, and gift boutiques, as well as some really good restaurants. Check out Rue de Rosiers for the oh-so-famous (five Euro) falafel sandwiches and many a New York-style Jewish deli.

Rue de Rosiers

Rue de Turenne has some excellent clothing shops and a couple of good boulangeries. Rue de Vieille Temple houses lots of great bars and restaurants, as well as bookstores, galleries, and gelato spots. Wander inwards and you'll stumble upon the Enfants Rouges indoor market, replete with Moroccan, Italian, Lebanese, Caribbean, and Japanese restaurants.

A displayed menu at Enfants Rouges Market

My advice to people coming to the Marais is to use the Saint-Paul metro stop (located on Rue de Rivoli, which is the same street as Rue Saint-Antoine) as a starting point. Wander inwards along one of the major streets (Rue de Vieille Temple is a great one), and stop along the shops and cafés along the way. Carry a map, as it's quite easy to step out of the Marais. Finally, don't be afraid to ask those hip Parisians for directions if you're lost!

The Marais
Métro Saint-Paul
Wander in the direction away from the Seine. The area is bordered by Rue de Rivoli (which becomes Rue Saint-Antoine) and is located in the 3rd and 4th arrondissements