My final month in Paris (back in 2010!) was spent primarily in the company of a few very fine Brazilian friends in an apartment in the Marais. I'd wake to the bright metallic blue skies of the Parisian summer, slip on a pair of socks, and pack out the grounds of what to me at the time was pure gold into the Italian espresso maker in the kitchen. I'd set the metal device on the stovetop and glance over at it every once in awhile until it began to sputter and bubble. I would then place the espresso maker to the side at what I arbitrarily deemed to be the "right moment" and pour the contents haphazardly into a mis-matched cup from the set that came with the apartment. At that point, I would clutch the cup dreamily to my chest as I imagined what pastry I would purchase that morning.
The golden substance in question was none other than coffee that my friend had carried with her all the way from Brazil. I loved the deep flavor and rich body of the coffee, and the fact that the caffeine content didn't knock me to the floor. When I returned to the states, my friend spooned a good deal of the grounds into a disposable bag and tucked it away in my backpack for good measure.
On a professional and academic level, my image of Brazilian coffee production has always been of large-scale fields of identical trees with merciless mechanical harvesting equipment scouring overhead. I have yet to visit a farm (although I've passed them on many a bus ride) but I do realize that the diversity of production here is far greater than I had ever imagined prior. As I love the taste of the coffee here, I have since decided to fully embrace the substance for its flavor and absolute necessary place in Brazilian culture.
It seems that even within the span of the last few years coffee culture has ballooned into an industry of cool. The latest single-farm, small batch-roasted varieties line the shelves of hip cafés safely within the confines of their recycled paper packages. The shiny metallic and glass-framed apparatuses designed to reap the best flavor profile out of such coffees stand by, effortlessly gleaming in the streamy café window sunlight.
And there I am... in awe of it all, trying my hardest not to succumb to the trend, but fully immersed in the very culture of the whole thing. For when I have a really good cup of coffee, I fall hard.
That brings me to São Paulo, a city full of untapped treasures to both the shrewd traveler and the untrained eye. My dear friend Elle and I have been trouncing about discovering the best places to grab a cup of this luxurious joe. Two of which I'd like to highlight below:
1. Santo Grão
Although it boasts many locations, the one which I prefer the most is in the chic Jardims district of the city. We discovered it on a lazy friday spent sipping happily at a french press while reading the paper. This particular location is reminiscent of a French café, with tiny circular tables, wicker chairs, and a nice breeze magically flowing around the tables. It's worth a visit to taste the hand-selected cafés from Minas Gerais and read the paper with an excellent cappucino at your side.
Santo Grão
Rua Oscar Freire, 413
Jardins - São Paulo SP
http://www.santograo.com.br/
2. Coffee Lab
Coffee Lab reminded me of a treehouse dedicated to coffee preparation, with a nonchalant atmosphere and an unpretentious staff happy to demonstrate how they roast and prepare coffee for customers. They also offer free classes to those wanting to increase their knowledge about Brazilian coffee! This photo is courtesy of the wonderful Elle :)
Coffee Lab
Rua Fradique Coutinho, 1340
Vila Madalena - São Paulo/SP
http://raposeiras.com.br/
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